I hear this question often during AimPoint Golf Green Reading Clinics. “How do I make my own green map and what should be on it?” While surfing around the AimPoint Golf Forum, I found this discussion and thought it would be nice to share.
Let’s start with an example Mark posted:
AimPoint Golf Homemade Green Map
Here’s Mark’s answer to the question of how should it look. “The first most important thing is slope %, then anchor points, then zero line directions if you have time. The reasoning is that you can find anchor points and zero lines while playing if you need to, but measuring the % slope is going to get your read as accurate as possible. Mark (H)igh and (L)ow anchor points, which will show you where crowns (between 2 low points) and saddles (between 2 high points) are and also where your zero lines will be running from and to.”
Here are a couple of thoughts of my own based on my experience making green maps while competing in the NJCAA National Championship. I always, and I mean always, carry an Exelys Breakmaster
Exelys Breakmaster
and a 9″ digital level every time I go to map a green. You need to make sure you are measuring the direction of the slope and amount of slope in that direction correctly.
I think most of us are comfortable knowing that the green is not a constant slope event. For this reason, after I measure the area where I think the hole may be, I hit or roll 10 footers to see if it plays that. You will run into instances where it’s 3% where the ball is and 1% where the pin is. After you hit one, you will have a good idea how it ‘plays’. It’s the ‘play’ number you want to record on the map.
It’s also important to remember you don’t have to measure the entire green. There will be places on the green that are unpinable. Focus your time on the areas of the green most likely to contain the pin. I would also focus on areas that look like ‘run off’ areas and see how severe they are. Mark them correctly on the map if they are false areas where the ball won’t stay put.
Now, if it is your home course, the first thing I would do is go out on the course and take some pictures right after a very fast and heavy rain. This will give you low anchor points and other clear fall lines that capture water flow. Keep adding measurements to data you already have until you have a very complete mapping. This will take quite a while. Know that going into it and accept it. When done, you will have a distinct advantage teamed with your AimPoint Green Reading skills.
I hope you find this helpful. Please leave comments or questions about this post or any post in the blog.
Related posts:
how do you use the 9″ level? Does the one that Mark Sweeney talks about in the Forum show % Slope instead of degrees?
I’m surprised that the basic drawing doesn’t show some arrows. There has to be some pt where the attraction of the two low pts switch and affect direction.
Dennis,
Yes, the 9″ digital level can display in % slope. You would measure the slope in the direction of the slope.
This map is the kind of map someone could make while playing a practice round. Direction of slope (arrows) is surely important but not nearly important as the other information when pressed for time. As long as the player has been practicing and using their feet to find the inflection points, they should be able to do that while they are competing.
JG
I started mapping my local course today. So far I have the anchor points but didn’t think about slope %’s.
I guess in between the ‘H’ anchors the green is the same elevation and that if for example it sloped down and back up (saddle) there would be an ‘L’ anchor marked in between them?
Also are the % slope figures located on the map for probable pin positions or is the location on the map significant in another way?
Last question (promise!) is what are the two lines?
Thanks, David
David,
There would only be an L if it was a place where water would drain off the green. It could be lower than the 2 highs around it but not low enough to actually remove water from that area.
Usually, they are there for pinnable areas. Areas where the pin may likely be.
I think the two lines indicate a small saddle.
JG
Thanks John; much appreciated!
As over-estimation of slope is better than under-estimation I’m guessing the % figures are also the largest % at that point? e.g. If the slope is 3% front to back and 1% left to right you’d note the 3% figure on the green map?
Thanks, David
David,
That is mostly correct. You want the amount of slope % in the direction of the slope. It won’t be 3% back to front and 1% left to right. It will be one number in the direction the slope is going.
That being said, when estimating, a little high is better.
JG
John,
I’m curious if you couldn’t just get by with the Breakmaster and 9 inch board? I’m guessing that the 9 inch level is used because its length would give more accurate/representative readings. By placing the Breakmaster on a 9 inch board you could achieve the same results at a much cheaper price. Granted, you’ll have to convert degrees to percent, but that’s a price I’m willing to pay.
Ed,
That would certainly work.
I’m assuming you are outside the US because the level is actually much cheaper than the breakmaster over here.
JG
John,
Sorry, by cheaper I meant that the total price of a Breakmaster and a 9 inch board are cheaper than a Breakmaster and a level.